A fascinating look into the history, and near demise, of the bourbon industry
Liquor aficionados may understand this lesson, but it’s one that is essential to the industry. Every bourbon is a whiskey, but not every whiskey is a bourbon. This is the lesson at the heart of the documentary, “Neat: The Story of Bourbon.”
Define Bourbon
Viewers join the general public as they are exposed to the popular quiz. What is a bourbon? The answers vary greatly. Does a bourbon have to made in Kentucky or just in the United States? Does a bourbon need to contain a certain breakdown of ingredients? Is there a type of barrel specific to make something a whiskey or a bourbon?
The answer is specific to each of these. Several are urban legends. Others are misconceptions. This documentary explains not only the answers to what makes a bourbon, but why that formula exists. It didn’t come from some generalization or vote by an assembly. The definition of a bourbon is very specific, and it comes from several historical decisions.
The Law of Bourbon
At its best, Neat is a historical recollection of the industry. Whiskey drinkers may recognize the names on bottles, but may never understand the significance of those names. Perhaps the most defining name in the business was that of Colonel E.H. Taylor. Edmund Hayes Taylor, Jr., holds the unofficial title of the “Father of the Modern Bourbon Industry.”
Taylor’s experience was unique in that it incorporated his familiarity with the industry and both a banker and as a politician. He understood the finance of bourbon and the specifics of the niche market it occupied. He also knew exactly how to ensure that those who got in early could corner that market against flagrant imitators seeking to cash in on demand. Taylor became the primary force behind the 1897 Bottled-in-Bond Act. This piece of legislation, once enacted, ensured that distillers had to prove the authenticity of their blends and origins. It single-handedly drew the dark, undeniable line in the sand between whiskeys and bourbons.
The Names Have Changed
Taylor’s distillery was purchased by George T. Stagg in 1878 and it became a cornerstone of the Buffalo Trace name. Buffalo Trace has since also taken over the labels and distilling of famous brands like Pappy Van Winkle and Old Rip Van Winkle.
One of the documentary’s best stories centers around the phenomenon of small batch and single barrel releases. Colonel Albert Blanton was a descendant of Taylor’s in the protection of authentic bourbon distillation. For over 55 years, he oversaw the George T. Stagg distillery, guiding it through Prohibition, even obtaining a license to produce “medical whiskey” for the government. His efforts are credited with keeping the production of bourbon consistent through decades of challenges.
The Bourbon Ressurection
In the later 20th century, the bourbon market began to dwindle. The liquor was perceived as an old man’s drink and it didn’t appeal to younger crowds. The course correction took some strong action, and some bold vision, from some of the champions of bourbon’s long history. In 1984, Elmer T. Lee, who had grown up in the Stagg distillery, took a chance on a supply and demand model that has driven the industry ever since.
1984 welcomed in the offering of Blanton’s Single Barrel. Not only was this shipment super limited, but it included a series of corks that collectors found as irresistible as the limited offering liquor itself. The bottles sold for multiple times what normal go-to-market runs did. Lee successfully reignited the bourbon demand. Bartenders across the globe immediately sought out bourbon as the unique ingredient in their signature cocktails. Demand increased and has since never wavered.
Conclusion
Neat weaves a wonderful tale that both traces the path of history and offers up a hopeful future. Bourbon fans will recognize many of the players, and often learn the role each of them had throughout the 200+ year journey that this liquor has traveled. Watching this documentary is almost a coming-of-age experience. It’s like sitting down with your whiskey loving grandfather and learning how to truly experience a drink you tried once as a shot and never understood. Watch “Neat”, listen to the history involved, and you just might gain an understanding…and a taste…for what you’ve been missing.